Journey to Scotland: A Long-Awaited Adventure — Chapter 1

From Ancestral Roots to Modern-Day Wonders in Edinburgh

By: Ellen Watts — August 14, 2025

Why visit Scotland? For me, the answer had always shimmered with personal meaning. Scotland—land of my ancestors, the setting for so many stories I’d devoured in books, and the dream destination for the retirement trip that never quite materialized. Yet, at last, the dream found its moment: a chance to walk the cobbled streets, breathe the sea air, and trace the echoes of family and fable alike

Arriving just after sunrise on July 11, following a sleepless overnight flight, my daughter, Magan and I stepped out into the gentle Scottish morning. It was a perfect blend of anticipation and gentle sunshine—68 degrees, with a golden light spilling over the historic buildings of Edinburgh’s Leith district, right where the city greets the North Sea. We wheeled our luggage to the Malmaison Hotel, that grand old landmark with its storied walls and views across the water. As our tour group wouldn’t arrive until the next day, we’d given ourselves a buffer—a chance to acclimate not just to the time and climate, but the spirit of Scotland itself.

With rooms not yet ready, we stored our bags and set off to explore. The streets of Leith felt alive with possibility: boats bobbed along the canal, and every shopfront seemed to overflow with a riot of summer flowers in boxes and baskets. Two blocks on, the Clock Cafe drew us in with the sweet promise of pastries and fresh bread. The display case was a parade of temptation. I chose Eggs Benny—rich, creamy, and bright—while Magan ordered a traditional Scottish breakfast of eggs and fresh fruit. The locals greeted us with warmth and laughter, delighting in our Southern American accents and easy smiles. We felt welcomed, almost as though we were old friends returning after a long absence.

It seemed as if nearly every passerby was accompanied by a well-behaved dog on a leash, and all along our walk, the architecture told stories—old, dignified, and weathered by centuries of wind. After a gentle stroll, we returned to the hotel and, finally, to the respite of our room. Unpacking gave way to a brief and much-needed rest.

Later, curiosity lured us out again, down quiet side streets and into the heart of a business district. Fortune favored our wandering feet, and soon we found ourselves face to face with a statue of Robert Burns—the immortal Scottish poet whose verses had kindled imaginations for generations. It felt like a sign, a personal welcome from the spirit of Scotland itself.

We retraced our steps along the canal and chose a lively restaurant on the corner near the hotel for dinner. Though outdoor tables were in high demand, our luck (or perhaps the charm of our Southern drawls and enthusiasm) secured us a prime seat beside the water. As we savored the experience, others were politely turned away. I like to think it was our delighted grins that tipped the scales in our favor.

Dinner was a revelation. I ordered fish cakes—more like tender, savory fish balls—set atop buttery new potatoes. Magan ventured a local favorite: Cullen Skink, a creamy, robust soup brimming with salmon, shrimp, mussels, other fresh fish, and vegetables all melded into a stew-like harmony. Each bite felt like tasting the sea, the land, and a little bit of history.

After such a full day, fatigue finally caught up with us. Back at the hotel, we discovered one quirk of Scottish hospitality: no air conditioning, and only a duvet on the bed—no sheets, no lighter cover to be found. The summer air on the fourth floor grew unexpectedly warm, but a fan from the closet and a cracked window helped a little. Outside, doves cooed into the night from their perch in a nearby tree. Dusk lingered until nearly 11 p.m., the sky never going fully dark, and by just past 4:30 a.m., daylight was already brightening the horizon.

As I drifted off to sleep, the city hummed quietly outside—a tapestry of old stones, new memories, and dreams finally realized. Day one in Scotland had delivered far more than sights: it offered the rare joy of connection, to place, to history, and, most of all, to each other.

Malmaison  Hotel in Edinburgh Leith District.

Our stay for the first three nights

Fisher’s Restaurant next to our hotel.

There were two restaurants in the hotel in Edinburgh

Wonderful meal of fresh fish cakes and, of course, potatoes at Fisher’s

Statue of Robert Burns, Scotland’s beloved poet!

We just found this along an evening stroll